Showing posts with label ready to wear. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ready to wear. Show all posts

Prada Spring Summer 2014: In Your Face

Prada Spring Summer 2014 backstage. Photo: Prada Instagram

I was actually more drawn to the beautiful murals than the show itself, I am not too sure that is a good thing. So, to me, the pieces that carried some of this work seemed the most interesting. As for the rest, very beautiful and commercial, very Prada with the embellishments and the sporty elements; I can already picture dozens of those pieces and accessories everywhere in the months to come. However, this was not one of those knock-your-socks-off Prada game changers. Sure, no one does it quite like Miuccia, still, the sporty colorblock heel has been done before: of the top of my head I can remember a Ghesquière collection for Balenciaga (I think it was fall 2007) and the embellished rubber flats remind me of the ones Christopher Kane did for SS2012. Hasn't Simons done some face plastering already? Don't get me wrong it's a great collection, I just thought taking cues from the others was more of a Proenza thing.

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Wear Me: Liz Black Otoño/Invierno 2013


          Desde su primera colección Liz Black ha tenido muy claro hacia donde va con su propuesta. A modo de una declaración, sus piezas evidencian formas poco convencionales y se afianzan a un estilo independiente de las tendencias pasajeras. No en vano, su singular enfoque le ha valido recientemente una nominación a los Scottish Fashion Awards (a efectuarse el próximo 9 de Octubre) en la categoría de Excelencia Creativa.

Louis Vuitton Fall Winter 2013: Boudoir Stories


Images by Ludwig Bonnet courtesy of Louis Vuitton.

    Ladies leaving after what seemed to be a passionate, perhaps secret, encounter in a fancy, decadent hotel came to mind as models walked out of 50 or so doors and strolled down a corridor wearing nothing but lace-lined negligees under long fur or robe-like coats. Even though they appeared to be on their way out, Vuitton's globe trotting woman would not be leaving her boudoir this season, and most certainly not the luxury she is accustomed to.

           And this luxury, which the house is known for, took a smart and elegant turn by banishing the infinitely copied Monogram and Damier canvas to emphasize on the unique savoir faire of the maison by focusing on the quality and treatment of the materials. Imitators will have a much harder time emulating favorites like The Pochette Accessoire, the Lockit and the Speedy which were done in marabou, curled goose feather and waxed crocodile with handles in carved, aromatic woods antiqued by hand, horn, or precious stones.

           The sensuous allure of this collection not only lied in the silky slips hidden under big masculine overcoats, long velvet dresses and fragile lace, but in the seductive surface treatments and menswear turned feminine through cut and embellishments, feather embroideries and sparkling dégradé effects at the hem.

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Autumn/Winter 2013: Burton's Religious Experience

       In January it was announced that the Alexander McQueen show would be cancelled and a small presentation would take place instead, since creative director Sarah Burton is nine months pregnant with twins. This could very much explain why only ten looks were shown; and, taking into account the incredible craftiness and exquisite details of the collection this might as well have been an Haute Couture showing.
            It was pure ceremonial splendor, a majestic interpretation of ecclesiastic wear with a nod to Elizabethan times: rich white lace, pearl embroidered bodices and hoop skirts. Models' necks were wrapped in gorgets while diamond-patterned gilded cages enclosed their heads (they sort of reminded me of Fabergé eggs).
          While some of Burton's religious frocks looked by no means sinless, like the black short embroidered dresses paired with pearl-studded fishnets, for instance; they added up to the drama in contrast to the more angelical, lavish gold embroidered corsets with voluminous white skirts and ornate ruffs. Darkness and light, the pure and the the impure, lustfulness and innocence, were always part of the Lee's complex dialectic.
              Burton has not only summed up McQueen's heritage beautifully into a succinct, yet magnificent collection; like her mentor, she has evidenced once again her incredible ability for showmanship.

Giambattista Valli Autumn Winter 2013

    photo GiambattistaValliFall-Winter13-14look01_zpsba44292a.jpg
 Photos: Courtesy of Giambattista Valli

        Giambattista Valli has proven more than once to be more than just a designer, he is a true couturier. This time around he managed to translate his skill swiftly into an easy, down to earth ready to wear collection that glided through masculine and feminine elements.
       He opened with a series of white and cream looks consisting mainly of sporty jackets with furry collars over white outfits and draped chiffon skirts. He moved onto shinier fabrics and a group of black looks that included sweaters with holes placed on purpose; the only pieces in the showing that had a slight "punkish" appeal. Fur was ubiquitous: trims, coats, vests and even a short evening black dress lined underneath with chiffon.  In addition he turned to his usual animal prints combining them with black to create sheath dresses or a sweater and draped skirt outfit. Only a couple of looks sported a red over black floral motif print. Bright red, baby pink and pistachio green were also part of his chosen color palette. The show closed very much like it opened: a cream coat over a long chiffon dress, this time with a crystal-embellished neck.
       Talking about embellishments, Valli's love of decoration was unusually absent in this presentation; something which played very much in favor of the glamour and wearability of this outing.

Céline: The Philo Files


Philo has proven to be one of the most innovative and consistent designers of the moment, if not the most. She delivers season after season elevating her game in every collection. This is without a doubt  one of her best outings to date.

Ackermann is the Man

      Haider Ackermann is one of the true geniuses of this generation. He brings something fresh to the table season after season whilst staying true to his unique, androgynous yet feminine aesthetic. His exquisite choice of fabrics, use of colour, impeccable tailoring and unequivocal way of layering pieces capture the quintessential woman of today: powerful, cosmopolitan, multifaceted who can look exceptionally glamorous and be comfortable in her clothes (and skin) at the same time.
           Ackermann is always looking forward, there is not a hint of vintage or nostalgia in his offerings (ok, there was a very subtle nod to the 80s today); a huge advantage over peers who base their collections on recreating trends from 30, 40 and over 50 years ago. Fashion in general should move forward without looking back so much. Prada manages to pull it off because she always makes it look so incredibly modern, so now.
         Today's show had outstanding outerwear that picked up on the oversize trend sneaking up almost everywhere this season.  Fitted or loose trousers ruched over boots under oversize knits and jackets gave the sensation of a relaxed yet very elegant, luxurious style.
       The belgian-born designer is also a master in creating rich mixes of textures and colour and making them come together in an effortless way. This time around he opted for chocolate brown python leather, velvet, metallics, houndstooth, black leather, forest green and an ocasional black and white graphic print.  He even brought in fur for the first time, making his closing look -a knee length coat thrown over an immaculately white pantsuit- a notable statement.

Balmain: is Mc Hammer the new Creative Director?

             I am so glad to finally read an honest review about Balmain AW13 (Jessica Michault for Nowfashion). I could not believe other respected fashion authorities fail to mention (or recognize) this looks dated and is a too literal interpretation of the 80's. I don't see in which universe of the present time this is a good collection. Yes, the fabrics might have been exquisite and the execution impeccable (c'mon, Rousteing has the finest ateliers at his service duh!) but I don't see these clothes going anywhere other than a delorian ride with Marty McFly back to 1986. I couldn't help but wonder if the soundtrack was "Can't Touch This" (a 1990 song, but still) and if McHammer would take the bow at the end of the show. It's obvious that Rousteing is far too young to remember the 80s, otherwise he would have know better than to bring back the Thriller times of Michael Jackson.

Runway images:

London Fashion Week Highlights AW 2013

 Visita algunos de los mejores momentos de la semana de la moda de Londres de la temporada Otoño/Invierno 2013

London Fashion Week AW12 Day 4

Meadham Kirchoff - Aminaka Wilmont - Emilio de la Morena - Ashish - Holly Fulton - Roksanda Ilincic -Dion Lee - Peter Jensen

Holly Fulton

Hail Mary

Mary Katrantzou just keeps getting better season after season. This time pencils, spoons, a french garden, watches and even a typewriter made it into Katrantzou's fantastic prints. According to the Telegraph the designer collaborated with French embroidery house Lesage to put together this collection, no wonder this is almost couture. 
(photos: Nowfashion and



CHRISTOPHER KANE AW12 - London Fashion Week Day 4

Dear Stella, Just When I Thought You Couldn't Be More Fab

Just when I thought I could not love Stella McCartney more, she does a flash mob presentation with one of her best collections yet. Sleek gold-belted column dresses and ultra bright marble printed pieces with voluminous proportions. The designer said that the clothes that were shown tonight are main collection and the upcoming show in Paris will feature main collection pieces as well. So, McCartney is basically doing two collections this AW12 season.
Stella is a true innovator, she is the living wearable proof that high fashion doesn't need fur and skin to be luxurious and fabulous. To do fashion the way she does is to embrace a true creative challenge which  all of the designers should be embracing too.

Pensé que no era posible amar más a Stella McCartney hasta que vi la presentación a lo flash mob de una de las mejores colecciones que jamás haya hecho. Vestidos ceñidos con cinturones dorados y un estampado de mármol en colores ultra brillantes que daba formas voluminosas a las piezas. La diseñadora comentó que esta muestra es colección principal al igual que la próxima a presentarse en París en dos semanas; es decir, la diseñadora esta temporada tendrá dos colecciones.
Stella McCartney es una verdadera innovadora, es la prueba que se puede  hacer moda igualmente lujosa y espectacular sin pieles y uso de animales. Eso es un verdadero reto creativo que los demás diseñadores deberían asumir.

(Check out Lisa Armstrong's report from the Telegraph)

London Fashion Week AW12 DAY 3