Haider Ackermann is one of the true geniuses of this generation. He brings something fresh to the table season after season whilst staying true to his unique, androgynous yet feminine aesthetic. His exquisite choice of fabrics, use of colour, impeccable tailoring and unequivocal way of layering pieces capture the quintessential woman of today: powerful, cosmopolitan, multifaceted who can look exceptionally glamorous and be comfortable in her clothes (and skin) at the same time.
Ackermann is always looking forward, there is not a hint of vintage or nostalgia in his offerings (ok, there was a very subtle nod to the 80s today); a huge advantage over peers who base their collections on recreating trends from 30, 40 and over 50 years ago. Fashion in general should move forward without looking back so much. Prada manages to pull it off because she always makes it look so incredibly modern, so now.
Today's show had outstanding outerwear that picked up on the oversize trend sneaking up almost everywhere this season. Fitted or loose trousers ruched over boots under oversize knits and jackets gave the sensation of a relaxed yet very elegant, luxurious style.
The belgian-born designer is also a master in creating rich mixes of textures and colour and making them come together in an effortless way. This time around he opted for chocolate brown python leather, velvet, metallics, houndstooth, black leather, forest green and an ocasional black and white graphic print. He even brought in fur for the first time, making his closing look -a knee length coat thrown over an immaculately white pantsuit- a notable statement.