Showing posts with label Autumn Winter 2013. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Autumn Winter 2013. Show all posts

Moda Masculina Para Empezar el Año

SBA Report Magazine - Enero

Ashish Celebrates 10 Years at London Fashion Week. And Yes, He's Still Doing Sequins

Elie Saab Fall Winter 2013 Campaign

 En esta oportunidad la modelo Karmen Pedaru fue fotografiada por Craig McDean bajo la dirección artística de Riccardo Ruini para la Campaña Otoño Invierno de Elie Saab. La dirección de vestuario estuvo a cargo de Sophia Neophitou, cabello por Malcom Edwards y maquillaje por Peter Philips

Wear Me: Liz Black Otoño/Invierno 2013


          Desde su primera colección Liz Black ha tenido muy claro hacia donde va con su propuesta. A modo de una declaración, sus piezas evidencian formas poco convencionales y se afianzan a un estilo independiente de las tendencias pasajeras. No en vano, su singular enfoque le ha valido recientemente una nominación a los Scottish Fashion Awards (a efectuarse el próximo 9 de Octubre) en la categoría de Excelencia Creativa.

Trends: School's Out

Get your pleated skirts, navy blazers and chunky heel loafers, because the schoolgirl look hasn't been this big since we saw Alicia Silverstone roam around in her tartan skirt in Clueless. This is one of the many 90's trends which has been popping up recently on the fall runways, so it seems that references from 20 years ago is the hot new retro thing!

Busquen sus faldas plisadas y mocasines de tacón porque el look de colegiala no se había puesto tan de moda desde los días que Alicia Silverstone lo llevaba en Clueless. Esta es una de las tantas tendencias de los noventa que ha regresado a las pasarelas recientes, además del grunge y los vestidos estilo négligée. Así que si tienes prendas de 20 años atrás,¡no te apures en desecharlas todavía!

Luís Buchinho Fall Winter 2013

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El diseñador portugués desde 1996 presentanta sus colecciones en la semana de la moda de Lisboa y desde 2009 forma parte del calendario "off" de la semana de la moda de París.

Viktor & Rolf Fall Winter 2013: Poised Subversion


Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren have been toning down their collections these past few seasons aiming at a more commercial approach of their aesthetic. Even if recent shows are not as explosive as before, they are far from boring and carry a lot of their unmistakable staple pieces.

Louis Vuitton Fall Winter 2013: Boudoir Stories


Images by Ludwig Bonnet courtesy of Louis Vuitton.

    Ladies leaving after what seemed to be a passionate, perhaps secret, encounter in a fancy, decadent hotel came to mind as models walked out of 50 or so doors and strolled down a corridor wearing nothing but lace-lined negligees under long fur or robe-like coats. Even though they appeared to be on their way out, Vuitton's globe trotting woman would not be leaving her boudoir this season, and most certainly not the luxury she is accustomed to.

           And this luxury, which the house is known for, took a smart and elegant turn by banishing the infinitely copied Monogram and Damier canvas to emphasize on the unique savoir faire of the maison by focusing on the quality and treatment of the materials. Imitators will have a much harder time emulating favorites like The Pochette Accessoire, the Lockit and the Speedy which were done in marabou, curled goose feather and waxed crocodile with handles in carved, aromatic woods antiqued by hand, horn, or precious stones.

           The sensuous allure of this collection not only lied in the silky slips hidden under big masculine overcoats, long velvet dresses and fragile lace, but in the seductive surface treatments and menswear turned feminine through cut and embellishments, feather embroideries and sparkling dégradé effects at the hem.

Miu Miu Fall Winter 2013 : Miuccia's Basic Instinct

             Leave it to Miuccia Prada to close Paris Fashion week on a high, fun and flirty note. The show opened with a series of navy sailor-back coats and suits lined with astrakhan. Then followed parkas (even a strapless version) over calf length skirts and long, zipped ensembles in polka dots and stripes in pink, yellow, teal, red and black. The silhouette was hourglass or streamlined and cinched at the waist. All the looks came with stripy stockings and fifties style shoes with metallic shades with chunky rubber soles.
    The label I like to think of as Prada's younger sister (and much like one) seems to have –in most cases–  a less cerebral approach towards clothes. In fact, Miuccia herself confessed that she had no time to make this collection and that she had based it on instinct. Apparently her instincts have guided her well into a very feminine, sporty and contemporary take on dressing this season.
           One thing is for sure, weather she approaches clothes right from the gut or from a very planned and orderly manner she always manages to make others follow her lead.

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Autumn/Winter 2013: Burton's Religious Experience

       In January it was announced that the Alexander McQueen show would be cancelled and a small presentation would take place instead, since creative director Sarah Burton is nine months pregnant with twins. This could very much explain why only ten looks were shown; and, taking into account the incredible craftiness and exquisite details of the collection this might as well have been an Haute Couture showing.
            It was pure ceremonial splendor, a majestic interpretation of ecclesiastic wear with a nod to Elizabethan times: rich white lace, pearl embroidered bodices and hoop skirts. Models' necks were wrapped in gorgets while diamond-patterned gilded cages enclosed their heads (they sort of reminded me of Fabergé eggs).
          While some of Burton's religious frocks looked by no means sinless, like the black short embroidered dresses paired with pearl-studded fishnets, for instance; they added up to the drama in contrast to the more angelical, lavish gold embroidered corsets with voluminous white skirts and ornate ruffs. Darkness and light, the pure and the the impure, lustfulness and innocence, were always part of the Lee's complex dialectic.
              Burton has not only summed up McQueen's heritage beautifully into a succinct, yet magnificent collection; like her mentor, she has evidenced once again her incredible ability for showmanship.

Giambattista Valli Autumn Winter 2013

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 Photos: Courtesy of Giambattista Valli

        Giambattista Valli has proven more than once to be more than just a designer, he is a true couturier. This time around he managed to translate his skill swiftly into an easy, down to earth ready to wear collection that glided through masculine and feminine elements.
       He opened with a series of white and cream looks consisting mainly of sporty jackets with furry collars over white outfits and draped chiffon skirts. He moved onto shinier fabrics and a group of black looks that included sweaters with holes placed on purpose; the only pieces in the showing that had a slight "punkish" appeal. Fur was ubiquitous: trims, coats, vests and even a short evening black dress lined underneath with chiffon.  In addition he turned to his usual animal prints combining them with black to create sheath dresses or a sweater and draped skirt outfit. Only a couple of looks sported a red over black floral motif print. Bright red, baby pink and pistachio green were also part of his chosen color palette. The show closed very much like it opened: a cream coat over a long chiffon dress, this time with a crystal-embellished neck.
       Talking about embellishments, Valli's love of decoration was unusually absent in this presentation; something which played very much in favor of the glamour and wearability of this outing.

Givenchy: Is Riccardo Tisci ready to depart?

             Some well known critics are calling it the show of the season.  Really? I would like to think "a show of the season" has a lot more to offer than rehashed stuff from former outings. He's been at the helm of Givenchy for 8 years, not 15. Should he have at least waited for the 10 year mark?  Well, not necessarily, even though it would have made more sense.
It feels this collection is just blatantly aiming to resell past hits; which of course, is not a bad move commercially speaking.
        Fashion is, supposedly, about bringing in the new, the now, and making it timeless (like Philo at Céline), not going back in (recent) time to redo old clothes. This just feels like when it's Sunday afternoon and you are too tired from cooking all week, so you throw together all the leftovers from the past few days (plus a few more ingredients) for dinner. Sometimes, surprisingly, it ends up being tastier (even if not original) than the initial dishes. Food analogies apart, this is sort of what went on at Givenchy.
     Recreating the Haute Couture tulle embroidered skirt for ready-to-wear was a brilliant idea, just add the famous best selling sweatshirts and belt them with what looks like a mountain climbing rope and metal loop buckle and you've got instant street style favorites. I can already hear the cash registers go "cha-ching". The color-striped python boots, half-zipped biker jackets turned into corsets,  pretty paisleys, Victorian flower prints and plaid shirts will surely become sought after by Tisci for Givenchy fans. This was also one of the few shows that offered outerwear other than the ubiquitous oversize coat: points for that. Still, it's hard to consider it a hit collection when something as essential as the feeling of novelty is missing.
            Let's not forget Givenchy skipped Haute Couture this January. Is this presentation and that recent absence a sign that Tisci is failing to come up with something new? or is he ready to depart?

Céline: The Philo Files


Philo has proven to be one of the most innovative and consistent designers of the moment, if not the most. She delivers season after season elevating her game in every collection. This is without a doubt  one of her best outings to date.